A consuming passion for quinces
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It is no surprise that the quince is an object of devotion—a golden thing, tempting but unyielding, until it is cooked, and it reveals ambrosial and aromatic flavors. Chef, food writer, cookery teacher, and fermentation expert Clare Heal does ample justice to this most unique and glorious of fruits in her new feature.
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Taking us on an evocative journey from literary allusion, and ancient history, to modern day harvests and culinary usage, Clare writes beautifully of this fruit with a ‘sensitive soul’. You will be left heading to your farmer’s market and planning the many ways in which you plan to cook them! Her article is rich in recipes and ideas from across ckbk, with suggestions from preserves to puddings, from sweet to savory, and not forgetting to raise a quince-perfumed glass or two.
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Try a classic Membrillo, sweeten up everything from your breakfast yoghurt to a bowl of ice cream for dessert with these Spice-Poached Quinces, make a magical Lamb Tagine with Quince, and have a fine time with a bottle of Quince Vodka or Gin. And find true inspiration and understanding of this special ingredient in Clare’s eloquent love letter to the quince.
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Pictured above: Quinces with Lamb and Rice Stuffing from Food of Life by Najmieh Batmanglij
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We Cook Plants – newly added to ckbk on publication day
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‘I’m not the most organized, skilled or precise of cooks. I’m a feeder, eater, enthusiastic learner and daughter of a fierce and highly skilled home economics teacher – but (…)I’m no pro chef. So if I can make these recipes, so can you. Don’t take things too seriously in the garden and kitchen. In our classes we always say the most important ingredient is joy. Thanks for cooking plants with us. You’re gonna love it.’ Sarah Bentley in her introduction to We Cook Plants
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In 2012 Sarah Bentley founded plant-based community cookery school Made in Hackney, to address important subjects—the climate crisis, health inequality, access to food, and community cohesion.
The result is a groundbreaking organisation with its network of classes and outreach, that is rarely out of the press, and which is improving the lives many, connected through great food.
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Climate and community are core drivers, but Sarah is also passionate about the health benefits of eating a plant-based diet, and her book We Cook Plants: For the People. For the Planet. For Joy, is both an introduction to the ethos of Made in Hackney, and an invitation to eat well. As she puts it:
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‘Most of us don’t have a background in health or nutrition, and so getting a handle on what it takes to thrive on a plant-based diet can feel like a lot. Not because it’s particularly complex, but because of the amount of biased misinformation flying around. (…) To cut through all the noise, we got together with Dr Shireen Kassam, Consultant Haematologist and Founder of Plant-Based Health Professionals UK (PBHP) and Rohini Bajekal, nutritionist, author and longtime Made In Hackney supporter and teacher to bring you the knowledge. You’re welcome.’
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Ingredient focus: kohlrabi
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Kohlrabi is a brassica, a relative of the cabbage. Despite its bulb-like appearance it is not a root, but an enlarged above-ground stem. The taste is closest to broccoli, and is sweet, mild, and pleasing.
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The texture is crisp and delicate, and very good raw when thinly sliced, julienned, or grated—think of it in fresh salads, coleslaw, or eaten with dips. It can be cooked in any number of ways, braised, stir-fried, pan-fried or roasted.
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6 of the best pasta dishes
October 17 is National Pasta Day. Surely every day is a potential pasta day! We love pasta. And we love these six scrumptious pasta dishes.
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from The Hog Island Book of Fish & Seafood: Culinary Treasures from Our Waters by John Ash
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from The Good Chicken Cookbook by Marcus Bean
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from Twelve: A Tuscan Cookbook by Tessa Kiros
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from Fantastic Fungi: The Community Cookbook by Mary Smiley
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from The Vegetarian Kitchen by Peta Leith and Prue Leith
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from Better Than Nonna: Modernised Italian Recipes by Danilo Cortellini
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